The vine and wine have perpetually been at the heart of life for the inhabitants of Etna. This bond, steeped in tradition and the expertise of the Muntagna's peasants (a term by which the locals reverently refer to the volcano), dates back 3,000 years. Despite its ups and downs — such as the phylloxera crisis or the migration of the peasants — this relationship has endured up to the threshold of the 20th century and continues today, with a relentless effort to preserve the character of this wine-producing region.
As a faithful witness to this history and expertise, the winery I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna — currently led by Mario Paoluzi — crafts I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna Pistus, a red blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, aspiring to emulate the wines that the Sicilian peasants of the area once traditionally made. Thus, under the D.O.C. Etna Rosso designation, this project emerges as a custodian of a tradition and a work ethic passed down through generations, now at risk of being lost.
The oenologist Salvo Foti also bears significant responsibility, striving for the past 20 years to restore the prestige this region has always enjoyed (in the 19th century, these wines were the most esteemed in Sicily and were exported worldwide). To achieve this, Foti has leveraged the Maestranza dei Vigneri, an association of oenologists founded in 1435, dedicated to teaching new generations the art of viticulture and winemaking.
It is essential to recognize that the work in this area, where vineyards can be found at altitudes of 1,000 meters, is highly specific and determined, primarily based on knowledge handed down from one generation to the next. The high-altitude plantations are compounded by the challenge of vineyards that must grow and adapt to the mineral and volcanic soils in a constantly transforming landscape, subject to various eruptions and lava flows that alter the terrain. As expected in this climate — with extreme temperatures both cold and hot — the vines planted on terraces must make an extraordinary effort, yielding very sparse fruits. However, as the Chinese proverb goes, "the flower that blooms in adversity is the most rare and beautiful of all"; a sentiment that resonates with the grape clusters of these vines, which, although few in number, exhibit exceptional quality.
In the case of I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna Pistus, the grapes grow in the Contrada Moganazzi vineyard, in Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern side of Etna, at an altitude of 700 meters. Specifically, these are old vines (around 10 years old), planted on sandy-volcanic soil rich in minerals. Cultivated in alberello (the region's traditional small tree-shaped system), these 7.5 hectares do not allow for mechanized work, hence all tasks are carried out manually and meticulously (especially the harvest). The clusters of I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna Pistus are taken to the winery, where they are destemmed and crushed before being left to macerate for a week. After this period, they are transferred to stainless steel tanks for fermentation. Once completed, I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna Pistus undergoes a 15-month maturation in concrete tanks and another 3 months in the bottle, becoming the finest tribute to a history rich in traditions.