When one mentions “Marco de Jerez,” the mind instinctively wanders to vibrant manzanillas, sharp finos, and fortified wines that have charmed half the world. Yet, there is another Jerez, long overshadowed, now finally beginning to claim its rightful place thanks to the almost archaeological efforts of figures like Ramiro Ibáñez.
From this retrospective emerges UBE, a project aimed at reviving classic unfortified wines crafted from listán blanco—or Ubérrima, as the variety was also known—, a name that inspires this range.
This is how UBE Las Vegas El Carrascal comes to life. It all begins in a tiny vineyard of 0.7 hectares in the Pago de El Carrascal. There, in an incredibly narrow planting frame of scarcely five feet, ancient clones of listán and palomino have been gazing skyward for over a century.
The soil is albariza de lentejuelas, that brilliant chalk acting as both sponge and mirror. On one hand, it retains what is necessary, and on the other, it reflects the light, compelling the vine to delve deeper. It's a combination that yields taut grapes, with precise aromas and a minerality that is felt more than smelled.
The grapes enter the winery without much artifice, with the aim of respecting the character they bring from the field. The fermentation, spontaneous, allows the must to express itself at its own pace. Then comes the biological aging, that Jerezian magic where the veil of flor takes over from the winemaker. But this is no ordinary aging. In this instance, Ramiro plays with the number of criaderas, the size of the barrels, the level of emptiness, and the rhythms of sacas and rocíos to adjust the intensity of the flor. It's not about turning it into a fino, but about adding a touch of depth without stripping the wine of its original voice.
UBE Las Vegas El Carrascal presents a beautiful balance between the saline tension of the albariza, the austere memory of the listán, and that delicate layer of flor that adds complexity without overpowering. It possesses the elegance of the old and the freshness of the reborn. It is Jerez, indeed... but a Jerez that many people have yet to discover.