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Unveiling Chapoutier, one of the most renowned French winemaking families
It is quite common, particularly in France, for an entire family to work on a wine estate, with knowledge being passed down from one generation to the next. This heritage, often invaluable, takes on a special significance in the case of the Chapoutier family. Michel Chapoutier, who oversees the most prominent winery in Hermitage, within the Côte du Rhône region, as well as other vineyards in the finest areas of this and other prestigious appellations, is not only one of France's most renowned winemakers; he is also distinguished by his visionary approach. His talent and boldness have been successfully imparted to his daughter Mathilde, who, as a worthy heir, not only continues the family legacy on the estate but has also begun to forge her own path with her personal project. A remarkable team, both together and individually, without whom the world of wine would be far less enriching.
1- Mathilde, being an integral part of one of France's most celebrated wine-making families, wine is in your DNA. However, have you always known that you wanted to dedicate yourself to the world of wine? When did you become absolutely certain?
Mathilde: As the French champion in rifle shooting, I was at the start of a promising sports career, but returning to my roots led me to immerse myself in this world, experiencing a sudden passion and developing a love for the vineyards.
2- Working with family, like everything, has its pros and cons. What advantages and disadvantages do you find in working hand in hand with your father?
Mathilde: My father, Michel, is the signature of the Maison's wines, the brand's ambassador. My mother handles marketing, my brother Maxime oversees technical aspects and spirits, and I focus on commercial development. We each complement one another with our areas of expertise, and it works very well this way. In a family, things are said directly, everyone contributes, and it creates a very dynamic environment. That is the strength of our Maison today.
3- One of the revolutions the Chapoutiers have undertaken is your commitment to biodynamic techniques in vine cultivation across all your vineyards. Michel, do you believe that, as pioneers in this type of viticulture, you have influenced a change in mindset among other wineries? How has this approach evolved since you implemented it?
Michel: I do not presume to have influenced anyone. I believe that the common sense of winemakers has naturally led them towards agrobiology, which involves organic farming and, at times, biodynamics. If we want to uphold the notion of "terroir," the soil must be alive. It is not about influence but rather the sensitivity of a passionate winemaker.
4- Considering that tradition and innovation are often difficult concepts to balance, how do you find the middle ground between respecting the family legacy and exploring new techniques or styles?
Mathilde: The balance between tradition and innovation is at the heart of our approach. Respecting the family legacy means honouring the know-how and values passed down through generations. It involves a deep understanding of the "terroir" and meticulous attention to detail. However, innovation is key to evolving and meeting the changing expectations of wine enthusiasts. This harmony between tradition and modernity allows us to create authentic and innovative wines.
5- The Chapoutier winery is renowned for its exceptional wines and a philosophy that goes beyond winemaking. These aspects have helped achieve the coveted 100 Parker points for many of your wines. Is there a before and after reaching the pinnacle?
Michel: I was the youngest winemaker to achieve a 100 with the 1989 vintage. At that time, Robert Parker held a dominant position, which led to speculation with wines rated 100 points. To avoid this, we decided to sell them en primeur, allowing buyers to choose without the influence of critics. A wine critic should be like a film or literature critic: we seek one with tastes similar to ours and trust their recommendations. I even considered a blind tasting project to help consumers identify their ideal critic based on their preferences.
6- In your case, Mathilde, you have embarked on a personal project focused on Provençal rosés. What led you to choose this type of wine, and what values or characteristics would you say you bring to these rosés that make them unique?
Mathilde: I love exploring French and foreign vineyards to create a range that combines conviviality, simplicity, and pleasure. My approach is to demystify wine and offer a straightforward interpretation of taste. For me, wine is pure enjoyment. Through encounters, the appellations and "terroirs" reveal their typicity. In Provence, we can create wines of "terroir," of discovery. The idea is to offer wines for enjoyment, sharing moments with friends and appreciating the typicity of an appellation at accessible prices.
7- Climate change is one of the greatest challenges for current and future viticulture. How has climate change affected your vineyards and the production of your wines? What measures are you taking to adapt to these new conditions and maintain the quality of Chapoutier wines?
Michel: We must work attentively and follow the principles of epigenetics. The advantage of biodynamics is that it allows us to work in harmony with the climate. The natural response to climate change is the adaptation of the plant through its epigenetic principle.
8- Increasingly, consumers are showing interest in sustainable, natural wines with less interventionist production techniques. What aspects do you value when creating wines that can attract new generations?
Mathilde: We are deeply committed to sustainable and environmentally respectful viticulture, something that resonates particularly with new generations. For example, we launched "Rouge Clair" last year, a fresh and light wine that can be served chilled, with an eco-friendly stopper and an interactive label. It combines innovation and tradition to meet the expectations of young consumers.
9- Finally, could you share with us the name of a wine that has recently captivated you and why?
Michel: Vega Sicilia 1965, my wife's vintage.
Mathilde: The nerello mascalese from Terre Nere, for its freshness, finesse, and minerality. An elegant wine from high-altitude "terroirs," everything I love.
