Sin denominación (Madrid)
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Sin denominación (Madrid)
D.O. Vinos de Madrid (Madrid)
D.O. Vinos de Madrid (Madrid)
VT Castilla-León (Castilla y León)
D.O. Vinos de Madrid (Madrid)
D.O. Vinos de Madrid (Madrid)
Comando G was created in 2008, thanks to three young friends who worked in different wineries, and who set up this project as their hobby: Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi, better known as Daniel Landi, Fernando García Alonso and Marc Isart. The three of them met while studying a master's degree in oenology from the Polytechnic University of Madrid.
Marc Isart, through Raúl Pérez, moved from Catalonia to work in the area of Madrid as an oenologist in the Bernabeleva winery, in San Martín de Valdeiglesias (Madrid). However, he left the Comando G project in 2013 due to family circumstances and not being able to devote the necessary time.
Daniel Landi produced his last vintage in the Jiménez-Landi family winery in 2011 to start his own adventure in El Real de San Vicente (Toledo), with two specific plots in El Tiemblo and Cebreros (Ávila), also with Comando G.
Fernando García took Agricultural Studies in Madrid, specialising in plant technology. He harvested in El Bierzo with Raúl Pérez, back in 2004, he worked in Lavinia, and in 2006 he started to work with Telmo Rodríguez in different regions with very different vineyards, among them Cebreros in Ávila, where Telmo made the red wine Pegaso, with Grenache, along with the rally driver Carlos Sainz. Fernando would also start up the project Bodega Marañones, located in D.O. Vinos de Madrid, sub-area of San Martín de Valdeiglesias, in the western part of the Community of Madrid, where he still performs the technical management.
History of the winery
As we have already mentioned, the history of this winery started in 2008. It is located in Cadalso de los Vidrios, and it is used both for the production of the wines from Comando G and for those of Daniel Landi. But as always, in these types of projects the most important thing is always the raw material, the vineyard, the grape.
They work in three villages where they produce wines with different features: Cadalso de los Vidrios, from where they make La Bruja Avería, in Las Rozas de Puerto Real, origin of Las Umbrías, both in Madrid, and in the province of Ávila in Navarrevisca, in a spectacular vineyard located at around 1,200 metres of altitude, producing barely two barrels.
But they never stop. In fact, they are always looking for new unique vineyards, so it is not surprising that in some harvests they launch on the market new wines from some of their new or segmented vineyards.
Cadalso de los Vidrios is practically the last municipality of Madrid, in the south-west, bordering with the provinces of Toledo and Ávila, and it has a cooperative created in 1956. The soil, as in almost the entire area of Gredos, is comprised of granite. Here, there are several quarries dedicated to its exploitation. They have vineyards in two different areas, one one "terraces", at around 900 metres of altitude, surrounded by trees and undergrowth, half an hectare of very old vineyards of around 80 years old. In the ravines, further down at 840 metres, there are around 2 hectares of old vineyards, also oriented to the east.
Las Rozas de Puerto Real borders with Cadalso de los Vidrios. It is the town that is the furthest to the west in the province of Madrid. Here we can find vines that are truly different. Half an hectares located at 1,000 metres high, in an area of difficult access, surrounded by huge rocks, with trees, in an area of sunlight and shadow. From here they make their wine Las Umbrías, a mysterious wine, fragile and enigmatic, always with very little colour, subtle and elegant, with a great acidity in the mouth, and a sharp note of sour strawberry.
Navarrevisca is located to the south-east of the province of Ávila, at around 1,140 metres of altitude. Here we can find a truly unique vineyard, which is just over 0.3 hectares oriented to the north. Solitary, isolated, surrounded by trees, on a hillside full of impressive granite rocks, with vines poking out of the gaps. It is outside the geographical location of D.O. Madrid, so its wines are marketed as Vino de la Tierra de Castilla-León.
Comando G is a small project focused on quality, because quantity is always dictated by the vineyards. They are old vines that have to work hard. They even have to be tilled with draft horses and many of them need certain recovery because they have been poorly maintained. However, they are not suitable for large productions, so Comando G is focused in offering in each of its wines the personality of each of the vineyards and villages of the Sierra de Gredos, following an eminently Burgundian philosophy.
Its grapes are of the Grenache variety, which, contrary to the usual image, in Comando G it becomes delicate and elegant. Work in the vineyard is also oriented to lengthen the cycle of the plant to achieve slow and complex ripening, without an excessive concentration. This is something they manage to do by setting the yields to around 3,000-4,000 kilos per hectare. The vineyards are cultivated organically and those that are destined to single-vineyard wines, biodynamically.
In the winery they can make up to 45 vinifications in different containers, wooden vats, plastic vats or open barrels.
The bunches are selected and they go straight to the deposit, most of the time with the stems. Then they go through a very soft stomping. The pump-overs and pigeage of the cap, are made with a simple watering can, and the vatting can go from around 30 days for La Bruja Avería, the basic wine range where they want to show the fruit, up to 70 days for some single-vineyard wines that require more time to bring out the landscape and minerality.
In the last stages of this slow process, wines are protected with carbon dioxide. After the pressing, the wines are transferred to barrels, foudres or vats, where they go through rather reductive ageing. Normally, the single-vineyard wines have their own foudre or barrel, but in the ageing in wood they look for large volumes that respect the personality of the Grenache to the maximum extent. Regarding sulphur dioxide, the total amounts vary between 40 and 50 gr/litre and it is added after the malolactic fermentation and before bottling.
Wines from the winery Comando G
La Bruja Avería is the base wine with the highest production of the winery. The name comes from an old children's television programme, and is its village wine, which must show the landscape of Rozas de Puerto Real. The grapes come from the lower part of the valley, between the municipalities of Rozas, Cadalso and Cenicientos, although they also buy part of the grapes from other winegrowers. The grapes of each plot were fermented with local yeasts and soft macerations, and they were were aged separately in French oak vats for around 7 months. It has a lot of red fruit, cherry, strawberry, blackberry, with nuances of fields, thyme, rosemary, and herbs such as cilantro and pepper. It is very fresh, meaty and elegant, with good acidity and mineral nuances.
Rozas 1er Cru. The first wine was born from the 2013 harvest. It is made from the vineyards located at the foot of the mountain, at around 900 metres of altitude. The must fermented at a controlled temperature, and then it was aged in 500-litre French oak barrels for 12 months. Aromas of wild fruit and citrus, with juiciness, depth and minerality on the palate.
Las Umbrías is born of a small plot of half an hectare, and vines that are around 60 years old, located at the top of the so-called Monte de los Corzos, at around 1,000 metres of altitude. The vines are planted on soils with granite and some red clay. The vineyard was practically abandoned and they were able to recover it using biodynamics. The must fermented in open barrels, and then it was aged in 500-litre French oak barrels for 12 months. Very fresh on the nose, with a lot of ripe red fruit, wild blackcurrants and strawberries, spices, fresh balsamic notes and mountain herbs. It is soft on the palate, with a medium body, red fruit, light roastings and slightly sweet tannins. It has a very good acidity and a balsamic finish.
Rumbo del Norte was born in the Alto Alberche, in the municipality of Navarrevisca, province of Ávila, from of a vineyard of less than half an hectare with vines that are around 55 years old. They are cultivated at 1,150 metres of altitude, with such a narrow plantation distribution that at the top, not even the horse can enter it, and there are huge stones placed between the vines. The harvest is performed very late, at the end of October, and the wine reflects all the peculiarities of a northern wine, fresh, sapid, with character and spice.
Tumba del Rey moro was born in Villanueva de Ávila, a wild-looking pre-phylloxera vineyard, where the vines grow down the mountainside among oak, chestnut and fig trees. It is pure north; a shady and cold vineyard, and it is possibly the Grenache with the longest aftertaste. It has aromas of ripe black fruit, along with a fresh nuance of strawberries, watermelon and bay leaf balsamic. In the mouth it is thick, ample, with juicy fruit and very fresh.
El Tamboril is a white wine that is born from a vineyard of white grapes located at 1,230 metres of altitude. Here, the best bunches of White Grenache and Grey Grenache are selected. The must fermented at a controlled temperature in a used barrel of 600 litres, and it was aged in the same barrel for 14 months in contact with its fine lees. On the nose it is fresh, with nuances of lemon grass, fennel and chalk. In the mouth it is fatty, sapid and creamy, with nuances of peach. They are also experimenting with a second one with biological ageing under the "velo de flor" or yeast cap, in Damajuanas, inspired by the wines of Jura.
Since 2010 they also collaborate with the project Uvas Felices of the Barcelona merchant Quim Vila (Vila Viniteca) for whom they produce two Grenache reds from old vines: El Hombre Bala, La Mujer Cañón and La reina de los Deseos, for which they use other vineyards in Cenicientos, Las Rozas de Puerto Real, Cadalso de los Vidrios and the vineyard El Chorrillo, with 4 hectares of very old vines, planted on an impressive hillside, with thick trunks. Some of them are century-old vines, and here they even have 0.3 hectares of Carignan. They are wines made to measure, to the taste of Vila, with a profile that is a little different to their own wines.
El Hombre Bala is aged for 10 months in French oak barrels of different sizes, and it has aromas of wild fruits, and lots of pepper. Slowly, sweeter shades like cinnamon start to appear. Balsamic notes, aromatic herbs and lactic nuances. It is very tasty, with tannins that are present but soft, and a spicy finish, fresh and persistent.
La Mujer Cañón is born from grapes from a single plot located in Cadalso de los Vidrios, at 900 metres above sea level, facing north and planted with granite soil, with old vines that are between 60 and 70 years old. The must fermented at a controlled temperature, and then it was aged in 500 and 600-litre French oak barrels for 12 months. It has a very complex aroma, with abundant red fruits, spices and fresh balsamic, along with notes of cinnamon and cocoa. In the mouth it is fine, but with powerful tannins and an extraordinary acidity that keeps it very fresh and supple.
La Reina de los Deseos is made with long macerations at low temperature, and the fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and vats at a controlled temperature, with an ageing of 12 months in 600-litre Seguin Moreau barrels, and others of 500 litres from the Bernard cooperage. It remained in bottle for 14 months in the winery, before was launched on the market. It is a fragrant wine, with aromas of macerated red fruits, black plum, picota cherry, with a touch of black pepper and a background of soft minerality. On the palate is has a silky texture and a remarkable tannin that is present and makes it grow in volume and weight in the mouth. It has a persistent finish.