In post-war Spain, the planting of new vineyards was prohibited. The scarcity of food necessitated dedicating land to the cultivation of cereals and staple products, relegating wine to a secondary role. In La Rioja, this measure curtailed the growth of small winegrowers for years, although some resisted letting their tradition die.
Among them were the grandfather and father of Alberto Martínez, who, during the height of rationing, decided to secretly plant vineyards in Labastida, concealing them among rows of lentils and chickpeas. Year after year, they expanded the Larrazuri vineyard, convinced that the land held a value beyond mere subsistence. Decades later, Alberto crafts wine from those very vines, now a symbol of resilience and family pride.
Indeed, although the arrival of phylloxera, the Carlist Wars, and the rise of large wineries gradually diminished the culture of the small-scale winegrower, this narrative began to be rewritten in 2020. That year, five winegrowers—Jorge Gil, Íñigo Perea, Luis Salazar, Alain Quintana, and Alberto Martínez—decided to revive the spirit of their ancestors. With the support of Telmo Rodríguez and the Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri, the project Cosecheros de Labastida was born, an initiative that champions artisanal work, the identity of each vineyard, and the diversity of the Rioja terroir against the uniformity of industrial production.
Larrazuri is Alberto Martínez's contribution to this collective endeavour. It is crafted from a blend of red and white varieties—tempranillo, garnacha, viura, graciano, and moscatel—cultivated using sustainable agriculture, and naturally ferments with indigenous yeasts following the traditional method of carbonic maceration.
The result is a vibrant and expressive wine, with the fresh and fruity character typical of cosechero wines, yet with the depth that only old vineyards can impart. In Larrazuri, family tradition, the landscape of Labastida, and the sensibility of a new generation coexist, demonstrating that the future of Rioja wine can also be written from the roots.