Is your palate in ennui? Tired of the perpetually insipid flavours? Have wine tastings ceased to amaze you? Decántalo to the rescue with Ca'n Verdura Viticultors Ca’n Xicatlà! Elevate your parties, tastings, and samplings to new heights of fun and wonder with this blanc de noir, a single-varietal of mantonegro cabellis, crafted in the D.O. Binissalem Mallorca.
The region and the grape variety are quite promising, wouldn’t you agree? Just ask Tomeu Llabrés, the vintner currently at the helm of Ca’n Verdura, an initiative aimed at reviving plots and grape varieties on the brink of extinction. The mantonegro cabellis was one such variety. This particular strain is a special type of mantonegro (an indigenous variety from the Balearic island) that was widely acclaimed in the mid-20th century; however, its ripening issues—characterized by a phenolic imbalance resulting in clusters bearing white, rosé, and red grapes—led to its decline in use. Now, several decades later, Tomeu Llabrés is on a quest to resurrect this oenological gem by cultivating a small, one-hectare plot in the Camí Vell de Muro area, in Binissalem. Here, between 70 and 140 meters above sea level, old vineyards are shaped by both the soils (clayey, reddish in hue, iron-rich, and gravelly) and the Mediterranean climate (with mild winters and hot, dry summers). Inextricably linked to this is the touch of Tomeu Llabrés, who opts for a natural cultivation, with minimal intervention and a rich biodiversity.
And one must not overlook the imprint left on Ca'n Verdura Viticultors Ca’n Xicatlà by its time in the winery (or more accurately, a garage), where the magic happens with equally minimal intervention. Ca'n Verdura Viticultors Ca’n Xicatlà is handpicked in 15-kilo boxes and goes straight to the press, where the must is extracted. Here, it rests statically for about four days, allowing the suspended substances to settle at the bottom of the tank, clarifying the remainder of the must. Following its time in stainless steel, it's the barrels' turn, where Ca'n Verdura Viticultors Ca’n Xicatlà undergoes fermentation. It is in these used French oak barrels that Ca'n Verdura Viticultors Ca’n Xicatlà will spend nine months, then returning for another month to stainless steel, and finally, four months in the bottle.
If you thought you knew all (or nearly all) there is about Spanish wines, you were sorely mistaken. A new variety—the mantonegro cabellis—and a new region—the D.O. Binissalem Mallorca—are shaking the very foundations of your beliefs. As Oscar Wilde once said, “The pure and simple truth is rarely pure and never simple.”