In Old Spanish, "tirar el hato y el garabato" means to throw everything to the devil or, as we might say today with more flair, to go all in and give it your all. This is precisely what Jose Manuel Beneitez did. After spending years traveling across the globe, crafting wine in some of the most cutting-edge wineries in Portugal, California, and Australia, he decided one day that it was time to pause and heed the call of his roots. He packed his bags, bet everything on one card, and returned to his grandparents' village in Fornillos de Fermoselle (Zamora), right in the heart of the DO Arribes. The plan? To reclaim small plots of old abandoned vineyards on the edge of the spectacular Duero canyon. Thus, El Hato y el Garabato was born, a project of heroic viticulture and pure rural resilience.
To name this very special white wine, Jose delved into ancient Greek to unearth the word eklektikós, which describes those who select and adopt elements from various sources to retain the best, without adhering to any fashion or sticking to a single trend. Indeed, Ecléctico Artesano Lías is a wine free by definition. It originates from a mere 8 hectares of untamed smallholdings, with ancient vines between 80 and 120 years old that cling to life at altitudes of 700 to 800 metres above sea level. Here, the soil is a celebration of weathered granite that imparts a tension and mineral energy that cannot be replicated anywhere else on the planet.
The winemaking process is an exercise in absolute respect and minimal intervention. Harvesting is done by hand, cluster by cluster, in these small plots. Instead of employing heavy technology, the choice is made for direct pressing and spontaneous fermentation, allowing the wild indigenous yeasts to work their magic at their own pace. Subsequently, the wine is left to rest for 8 months of ageing in tanks on its fine lees, gaining a formidable texture, volume, and complexity. Finally, the wine is bottled as is, unfiltered and unfined.
When you pour a glass of El Hato y el Garabato Ecléctico Artesano Lías, you encounter a white wine with an overwhelming personality dominated by the local variety puesta en cruz alongside a puzzle of hidden local varieties in the old vines. It is an electric, vertical wine with a fascinating granitic depth, yet enveloped by the creamy silkiness imparted by the lees. A wine that does not seek to please everyone, but rather to captivate those who appreciate the authenticity of a landscape bottled without filters. A wild gem that proves that sometimes, throwing everything to the devil to return to your origins is the best decision of your life.