There are summers that leave an indelible mark. For Aldo Vaira, the summer of 1968 was anything but ordinary. At fifteen, the streets of Turin were filled with banners and slogans. While other teenagers spent their time in cafes or cinemas, he joined the demonstrators. His father, worried about the unrest and fearing his son might go astray, made a drastic decision: to send him to Barolo, at the heart of the family vineyards, to distance him from the commotion.
What seemed like a punishment turned into a turning point. Aldo discovered an unexpected world among the vineyards: physical labour, direct contact with nature, and a pace distinct from that of the city. What began as an obligation ended up becoming a vocation. While many young people were abandoning the countryside for the city, he chose to stay.
Today, that unexpected turn is behind G.D. Vajra, one of the most respected wineries in Piedmont. On their 40 hectares in Vergne, at about 400 metres altitude, the Vaira family cultivates nebbiolo, dolcetto, and barbera, with a clear philosophy: each plot deserves specific treatment to fully express its character. Aldo paved the way and his son Benoît, the current winemaker, continues with the same discipline and rigour.
One of the wines that best reflects this approach is Dolcetto d’Alba Coste & Fossati. It is not merely an outstanding dolcetto, but a project that was developed over decades (between 1979 and 1985). Aldo selected clones from ancient dolcetto vines and grafted two iconic vineyards—Coste, with southern exposure, and Fossati, with southeastern exposure—on calcareous soils that provide structure and elegance. In the winery, the wine is aged for 6 months in Slavonian oak barrels, with a small percentage in stainless steel.
As Aldo himself says: “A lifetime’s work has led us to Coste & Fossati, the quintessence of our finest vineyards.” A dolcetto that combines freshness and intensity and evolves wonderfully over time.